Buying a home is exciting — and a little nerve-wracking. After the offer is accepted, the home inspection is your best chance to understand exactly what you're buying before the deal becomes final. A thorough inspection can reveal hidden problems, give you negotiating power, and save you from expensive surprises down the road.
Use this checklist to know what a good inspection covers, what questions to ask, and what to do with the results.
Why the Inspection Matters
A home inspection is a professional, visual evaluation of a property's condition. It won't guarantee a perfect house — no home is perfect — but it gives you a clear picture of the property's health, from the roof down to the foundation. Most buyers make their offer contingent on a satisfactory inspection, which means you can renegotiate or walk away if serious issues turn up. (We explain how those contingencies work in our guide to contingencies in a real estate contract.)
Exterior, Roof, and Drainage
Start outside. The inspector should check:
- Roof condition — missing shingles, sagging areas, worn flashing around chimneys and vents
- Gutters and downspouts — securely attached, draining water away from the foundation
- Siding, brick, or stucco — cracks, rot, or water damage
- Grading — the ground should slope away from the house so water doesn't pool at the foundation
- Driveways, walkways, decks, and fences — major cracks, rot, or instability
Practical note: Roof problems are among the most expensive to fix, so pay close attention here. Ask how old the roof is — most asphalt shingle roofs last 20–30 years.
Foundation and Structure
The foundation holds everything up, so this part matters enormously:
- Visible cracks in foundation walls (hairline cracks are often normal; wide or horizontal cracks deserve a closer look)
- Signs of water intrusion in basements or crawl spaces
- Uneven or sloping floors inside the home
- Doors and windows that stick — sometimes a sign of shifting
Plumbing Systems
A good inspector will run the water and check:
- Water pressure at multiple fixtures
- Under sinks for leaks or water damage
- Hot water — temperature and how quickly it arrives
- The water heater's age and condition
- Pipe material — older galvanized pipes corrode over time
Electrical Systems
Electrical issues are both a safety concern and a common negotiation point:
- The electrical panel — proper labeling, no double-tapped breakers, adequate capacity
- Outlets and switches in every room (test a sample)
- GFCI outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and outdoor areas
- Visible wiring concerns in the attic, basement, or garage
Heating, Cooling, and Ventilation
Your HVAC system is one of the costliest components to replace:
- Age and condition of the furnace/boiler and air conditioner
- Whether systems turn on and run through a full cycle
- Filter condition and signs of neglected maintenance
- Ductwork — disconnected or damaged ducts waste energy
Practical note: Ask the seller for the system's age and any service records. A 20-year-old furnace still running isn't a dealbreaker, but budget for replacement.
Interior: Rooms, Windows, and Doors
Room by room, the inspector checks:
- Walls and ceilings — stains that suggest past or active leaks
- Windows — do they open, close, and lock? Any fogged double-pane glass?
- Doors — proper operation and latching
- Flooring — major damage, soft spots, or tripping hazards
Attic, Insulation, and Ventilation
The attic tells you a lot about the home's energy efficiency and moisture control:
- Adequate insulation depth and coverage
- Proper ventilation — soffit and ridge vents clear and working
- Signs of roof leaks (stains on the underside of the roof deck)
- Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans venting outside, not into the attic
(For a deeper dive, see our Attic Insulation and Ventilation Basics Every Homeowner Should Know post.)
What a Standard Inspection Doesn't Cover
Just as important as knowing what's covered is knowing what isn't. A standard inspection typically excludes:
- Inside the walls (no thermal imaging unless specified)
- Septic systems and wells (usually require separate specialists)
- Chimney interiors (a Level 2 chimney inspection is separate)
- Mold testing, radon testing, and termite/pest inspections — often worthwhile add-ons depending on your area
After the Inspection: Your Options
Once you have the report, you generally have three paths:
- Move forward as planned — if only minor issues turned up.
- Negotiate — ask the seller to repair major issues or reduce the price. Focus on safety and structural items rather than cosmetic ones.
- Walk away — if the problems are severe and the seller won't budge, your inspection contingency lets you exit.
Practical note: Don't expect a perfect report. Every inspection finds something. The goal is to avoid the big, expensive surprises — not to nickel-and-dime the seller over a dripping faucet.
The Takeaway
A home inspection is a modest upfront cost that can save you tens of thousands. Attend the inspection if you can, ask questions, read the full report — and use what you learn to make a confident decision. The right house with known, manageable issues beats the "perfect" house with hidden ones every time.
